How to Photograph the Northern Lights
by Peter Forister
Tips and tricks for Mid-Atlantic and other Mid-Latitude aurora Spotting
Photography and photo education is how I earn my living! If you find this information helpful, please consider donating a small amount to my BuyMeACoffee or purchasing a photo print at my Darkroom store.
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Darkroom Prints
Photography and photo education is how I earn my living! If you find this information helpful, please consider donating a small amount to my BuyMeACoffee or purchasing a photo print at my Darkroom store.
I also offer photography workshops for in-person education and on-location experience. Want to learn more about the topics in this article? Come photograph the northern lights with me!
How can you photograph rare aurora storms in Virginia and other Mid-Latitude locations? This article offers some practical advice I've put together from my experiences - the necessary gear, settings, and forecasts for northern lights spotting.
Although difficult, a photograph of the aurora in an "unexpected" location can be a massive prize. Many people are shocked that the lights can be visible from places like the Blue Ridge Mountains in Virginia. However, although rare, the northern lights have been witnessed many times over the past centuries in this region. There is a rich history of aurora observations in Virginia, including during key moments of American history such as the Revolutionary and Civil wars.
Camera technology has only recently advanced to a point which is able to easily capture aurora photographs. This advance came over the past decade or so. Before the mid 2000s, northern lights were rarely captured by digital and film cameras. The older camera technology was tricky to work with at night, and only provided grainy, dark images that couldn't be adjusted after being captured.
Since then, camera sensor technology has exploded. Massive, sensitive, and powerful full-frame digital sensors are now widespread and affordable on the consumer market. This accounts for the sudden and recent increase in northern lights observation in the mid-latitudes, and is even advancing our scientific knowledge of the aurora in ways we hadn't expected before!
So, let's dive in. How can you use this technology to spot the lights locally? Will a phone camera work, or do you need something more? Let's talk about all those details.
Mid-Latitude Aurora
Let's set a basic understanding of what's going on up there in space. This will help inform your decision making!
I've photographed the northern lights nearly two dozen times since early 2022. Over half of those instances were from Virginia, Missouri, and Nebraska. These states are considered "Mid-Latitude" locations.
Magnetic latitude is relative to the magnetic poles, which are offset from the normal rotational poles that are generally referenced. Here in North America, we're fortunate that the magnetic north pole is quite a bit further south than the rotational pole. Thus, we see northern lights more easily further south than other parts of the planet.
Geomagnetic "Mid-Latitude" locations are most common in the middle United States. Graphic courtesy of SpaceWeatherLive.com
Geomagnetic Storms - Forecast and Tracking Basics
The northern lights are caused by "geomagnetic storms" in the earth's magnetosphere. These storms may only occur a handful of times in a year.
Put simply, a stronger storm equals aurora visible further to the south.
Nothing, however, is simple about the geomagnetic interactions that drive these processes. Geomagnetic storms are driven by ejections of matter from the corona of the sun. The "Coronal Mass Ejections" (CMEs) and solar wind send high-energy particles hurtling towards earth at hundreds of miles per second. When, and if, they impact the earth's magnetic field, they can either bounce off (which is what happens most of the time) or get absorbed. Correct orientation and sufficient energy of the particles is required to generate the aurora.
Any sizeable geomagnetic storming requires an extended period (many hours or days) of favorable magnetic field interactions with the solar particles, something that can be very tricky to forecast more than an hour or so in advance.
Now, I'm simplifying this process a LOT. This should, however, set the fundamentals for what we need to forecast the northern lights. We can track the simplified strength of a storm with the KP index.
Description of the G scale from the Space Weather Prediction Center. Note that a "cycle" is equal to 11 years, or ~4,000 days. Click the image for the SWPC site.
Why does the G/KP level matter? Again, stronger geomagnetic storms will push the aurora further south.
Anything below a KP5 or a G1 storm is highly unlikely to produce aurora visible this far south. KP 0-5 will only have effects on far northern areas, such as Iceland, Norway, or Alaska.
Interpreting the KP Index
Geomagnetic storms are observed on the earth using a constellation of satellites and ground-based instruments. Storms are measured using the KP and G scales: KP is measured KP0 - KP9, and G is measured G1 - G5. In both cases, a stronger storm equals a higher number.
The KP index is a planetary index. The index takes these magnetic observations from all over the globe and boils them down into one simple number.
A value, such as KP6, means that the entire planet is experiencing, on average, enhanced storm conditions.
In my personal experience, we need AT LEAST a KP5/G1 or higher storm to photograph the northern lights in the mid-latitudes, and AT LEAST a KP7/G3 to SEE the northern lights clearly.
What this means for Us
Remember that the KP number is based off of observations from satellites and scientific stations. Be cautious about headlines in the news! If the news says that "Northern lights are expected tonight" but the KP index is very low, and is forecasted to stay low, you won't be seeing any aurora that night. Use the resources below to track the index in real-time.
In the mainland USA, it's always better to be further north for aurora. Maine and North Dakota may have easily visible aurora at KP5. However, if you're in Virginia like me, you really need a KP7+ storm.
A note of caution about the KP index: because it is a planetary and averaged index, it often lags an hour or so behind the development of a strong storm. The KP index is best used to get an idea of how active the entire night is. For minute-to-minute updates on substorms and the arc location (advanced topics that we'll discuss later in the article), you should NOT use the KP index.
Lets get into some practical application! How can you set up for success on a night when there's a possibility for aurora, and which resources to track? Let's discuss.
However, when those solar particles align with the earth's magnetic field, the KP number and G scale will rapidly rise. The onset of the stronger CME events may see a jump from KP1 to KP8 in minutes. Or, in an extended period of favorable solar wind, it could take a few hours to climb into storm conditions.
Observing Aurora - Tips Everyone Should Know
Whether you are an advanced photographer, beginner photographer, or someone who just wants to go out and enjoy the show without any technology, here are the things that EVERYONE needs to know before going out.
1. Track the KP/G level.
Things can change fast, so it's important to watch the data and keep updated on whether or not a geomagnetic storm is actually happening. You can't go out on a night when the KP level is 3 and expect to see something - it just won't happen. BUT, things can change VERY fast, especially with the onset of a strong CME. Keep an eye on the forecast at the Space Weather Prediction Center and use your favorite space weather tacking app/website to stay updated with conditions.
- I use spaceweatherlive.com most frequently. You can also download their mobile app. (Good for all user levels)
- The SWPC Dashboard is a good place to track current conditions and the latest official forecasts. (Best for intermediate and advanced users)
- The SWPC Real Time Solar Wind page tracks the latest active satellite data streams at the L1 observational point. (Best for advanced users)
The Spaceweatherlive.com main page during an extreme geomagnetic storm event
2. Look north in dark skies.
I get this question a surprising amount.... "Which direction do I look?" The answer is nearly always north ("northern" lights), but can sometimes require some careful planning. Not only do you need to look north, you need to look "away" from light pollution domes.
Find a spot that is offset from any towns and cities to the immediate north. I use the lightpollutionmap.info interactive map to plan locations.
For example, if you live to the south of Washington DC you could go due south to the James River to get into decently dark skies. However, because the urban lights are in between you and the northern horizon, you won't be able to clearly see the northern lights when they happen. It's important to drive to a place where a city isn't in between you and the horizon.
Avoiding light domes and finding a dark northern horizon is important 99% of the time. However, in the extremely rare occurrence of G5/KP9 events, aurora may be visible directly overhead in Virginia. Dark skies are still necessary for the best visibility.
Put simply, even if there's a lot of media hype for a big geomagnetic storm, you still need to find dark skies away from a large city! For those living in the DMV metro, it's best to go west or cross the bay. For other parts of VA, especially central and southern VA, just get out of the center of your local town/city. Think about any place where you would go stargazing on a normal night.
3. Be patient.
Even with extreme geomagnetic storming conditions (G5/Kp8+), the northern lights may not be immediately visible.
Bright bursts of aurora often occur in what are called "Substorms." These substorms are sudden and dramatic explosions of aurora which produce the brightest colors and tallest pillars. A strong substorm is your best chance to see the aurora with the naked eye. They are *very* difficult to predict. In my experience, they may occur every 1-3 hours in strong geomagnetic storm conditions, and last between 15 and 30 minutes.
Patience is key for observing these substorms. Pick your spot, set up, and then wait several hours!
Here is some time lapse video I shot during a Kp6/G2 storm from central Virginia. An aurora substorm happens over the course of an hour. Watch how quickly the pillars and bright lights appear from a very faint background glow.
4. Manage expectations.
Digital photographs make the aurora look MUCH brighter than they actually appear to the naked eye.
You've probably seen videos on social media of incredible, bright, and green northern lights dancing directly overhead. In Virginia, that kind of show happens once or twice a century. This isn't Alaska or Iceland, so the lights might not be quite what you imagine.
My photographs are all long exposure (something that I'll discuss at length here in a bit), which means that the camera captures more light than what our human eyes can see. Bright aurora in a 10 second exposure might only be barely visible to the human eye.
So what can you expect to see? The most frequent observation I've made in the Mid-Atlantic is a red haze on the northern horizon, punctuated by a few slightly brighter vertical pillars of light. They move slowly across the sky, as if a distant glow walking across the landscape.
Personally, I find ANY view of the northern lights to be a spectacular experience. However, many will find the naked eye show quite underwhelming.
Carefully weigh if the trip and the very late night is worth the experience. The answer will be different for every individual! Again, we're not in the Arctic, so the lights will not be like what you see on social media. Mid-Latitude aurora are best experienced if you have a camera to run long exposures and the experience to get good nighttime photographs.
So let's talk about taking those photographs....
What a camera sees (3 second exposure) vs what the naked eye sees
Photographing Aurora - Camera gear and Settings
How can you capture beautiful photos of aurora? It's easier now than ever before in history!
However, it still remains a technical process that requires some intermediate photography experience. It also strongly depends on the gear that you already have or are willing to purchase.
Here's a breakdown of what you can capture based on the gear you have.
You CAN capture bright northern lights with phone cameras. However, dim or distant lights may not show up well.
Most modern smartphones have impressively capable small digital cameras built-in. The trick is to use "Long exposure" modes for those cameras. Make sure to put your phone in night mode, if that option exists.
-iPhone guide for night-mode photos: Take Night mode photos with your iPhone camera
-Samsung Galaxy for night-mode photos: How to use Night mode on your Galaxy smartphone camera
There are also third-party apps that will let you control the long exposure settings more directly.
Phone Camera Settings
There is no "one setting" for all situations. However, in most dark/night sky photos, you'll need an exposure time longer than three seconds.
-Dim aurora on the northern sky: You'll need the longest exposure possible. AT LEAST ten seconds.
-Bright substorm on the northern sky: 8 to 10 seconds.
-Bright substorm overhead: 3-5 seconds.
You can take long-exposure photos handheld on most phones. They come with software that will digitally stabilize your photos so stars and details will be relatively sharp.
1. Phone Cameras
3-second iPhone Exposure of Overhead Aurora
3-second iPhone Exposure of Overhead Aurora
A steady tripod and camera mount will make your photos sharper! Note that in the photos above (captured by my iPhone in October 2024) are fuzzy and grainy. I shot these photos handheld (with a lot of adrenaline too), so my hands were shaky. A steady base is worth spending a few $$. It will make your photos much better.
Many people have successfully captured the northern lights with phones in the last two years! If this is your only option, you can still have a great time. However, if you have the option, consider using a digital camera.
Digital cameras are the most powerful tool we have to capture the night sky. Nearly all modern digital cameras will give you a robust range of lenses, settings, and sensitivity to shoot long-exposure nighttime phots.
Note that for this discussion, I will not be differentiating between digital point-and-shoot, mirrorless, and DSLR cameras. I would say that mirrorless digital cameras are best suited for this task, but any digital camera will work well. The camera MUST have options for a manual exposure mode, where you can control aperture, iso, and exposure independently. I'll discuss each of these in more detail below.
It is also NECESSARY to have a good, steady tripod to shoot nighttime photos with a digital camera. Although many will have a built-in stabilization system, it will not be enough to keep your stars and photos sharp. Get a good tripod - it's worth the investment.
2. Digital Cameras
Digital Camera Settings
There is no "one setting" for all situations. However, in most dark/night sky photos, you'll need an exposure time longer than three seconds. Here is a general guide for the settings you can expect.
If you have a faster lens (f/1.4-f/2.8) you can either reduce the exposure time or the ISO, depending on the situation. If the aurora is distant and slow, I like to use an ISO range of around 400-800 for noise-free images. However, for bright and fast aurora, I like to shorten my exposure time so that the pillars and details in auroral structures stay nice and sharp!
It's important to adapt to the situation you're in! Aurora can change QUICKLY. In the span of 90 seconds or so, you can go from a dim arc far away to brilliantly bright pillars nearly overhead. The guide above is a good starting point, but you'll often need to adapt to what your camera is showing and how the sky is behaving.
My advice: know your camera. Practice ahead of time too! Know how to quickly change your exposure time or ISO without taking several minutes to go through all the settings.
With night time photography, a "faster" lens is nearly always better. The faster the lens, the lower the Aperture number. A standard/moderate quality lens will have an aperture of around f/3.5, which is why I used that in the exposure guide chart. However, if you're able, a lower f/stop number is better. My favorite lenses drop to f/1.4.
Aurora digital camera settings guide
Shot on my mirrorless Canon R8. Settings: 1.6" f/2.8 iso 3200
Lenses
Which lens should you use for the aurora? In general, wider is better. The aurora is really big!
The very tightest you can really shoot is 50mm. This will serve you best when the aurora is on the far horizon.
I usually use lenses between 12mm to 35mm. Ultra-wide angle (10mm-20mm) lenses will be best for overhead or nearly overhead aurora. Or, you can use them to capture a foreground and extra sky for context! Wide-angle 20-35mm lenses will give you lots of robust options for most aurora. These are generally the most affordable and best-looking lenses too.
Manual Focusing
DO NOT depend on autofocus under the night sky. Most autofocus systems will struggle greatly to focus on the stars or a uniform night sky. It will struggle even with bright aurora. Autofocus likes to find sharp edges and contrast-rich scenes to make quick adjustments. Those kind of objects just won't exist in the night sky (and no, it won't work with stars except the very brightest in rare circumstances).
Set your camera and lens to manual focus mode. Focus on infinity using the live viewfinder: Digitally zoom in to a bright star near the middle of the frame (if you can't find a bright star, use a distant street light or something else bright) and adjust the focus manually till the light is as small as possible. Fix the lens in this position, either by not touching the focus ring or using a piece of tape. Note that the actual infinity focus may not line up with the infinity marker on your lens.
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This article is a work in progress - please excuse the typos and formatting!
PLanned Topics - Check back soon for more!
-Advanced aurora tracking techniques: Solar Wind and magnetometers
-Advanced Photography techniques: Timelapses and Frame Planning
-My gear and recommendations
Photography and photo education is how I earn my living! If you find this information helpful, please consider donating a small amount to my BuyMeACoffee or purchasing a photo print at my Darkroom store.
BuyMeaCoffee - $5
Darkroom Prints
Photography and photo education is how I earn my living! If you find this information helpful, please consider donating a small amount to my BuyMeACoffee or purchasing a photo print at my Darkroom store.
I also offer photography workshops for in-person education and on-location experience. Want to learn more about the topics in this article? Come photograph the northern lights with me!